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wshaffer

September 2021

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We started off today by walking down to Cardiff Bay, which is a lovely area to stroll around in and is chock full of locations that have appeared in Doctor Who. Some of them are looking a bit different right now - there's a carnival fun fair going on in Roald Dahl Plass, and the water tower sculpture that marks the entrance to the Torchwood hub is currently covered in giant stickers of strawberries. Still, I got some good photos of the tower and Millenium Center.

It was raining on and off through the morning, so we ducked into the Pierhead and later the Welsh National Assembly building to get out of the rain. The Pierhead has some cool Victorian terra cotta tile work, and few nifty odds and ends on display, like the binnacle from the ship that carried Scott on his ill-fated Antarctic voyage. It's not a place I'd recommend making a special visit to, but it's a nice spot to shelter from the rain. The Welsh Assembly building is actually pretty interesting, although it would have been still more interesting if the Assembly had actually been in session. There's a visitors' gallery above the assembly chamber that allows you to watch the proceedings, and a glass-walled corridor that you can walk along and look into the committee rooms from.

And then we were off to the Doctor Who Experience. Possibly more accurately described as the "Daniel patiently takes photos of Wendy standing next to Doctor Who props and grinning like a loon" Experience. When you walk in, the first thing you see is the 3rd Doctor's car, Bessie, and a Dalek made of Lego. If you can tear yourself away from those delights, and the temptations of the souvenir shop, then you can enter the Experience proper.

For the first half-hour, you're led as part of a group of thirty-odd people through an audio-visual experience that feels a bit like being dropped in the middle of a slightly silly webisode. The conceit is that the Doctor is trapped in the Pandorica Mark 2, and has been trying to get a signal to Amy and Rory, but instead he's reached you, a bunch of people out shopping. So, your job is to find the TARDIS and help the Doctor escape - which involves getting in the middle of a Dalek war, passing through a room full of Weeping Angels, and even getting to help fly the TARDIS. (Children get priority at the controls. There was one "child" who is two days short of her fortieth birthday working the navigation controls, but I promise you, I made sure that all the actual kids had a spot before I jumped in.)

The second part of the Experience is an exhibit of props and costumes from the series, old and new. They have costumes from each Doctor, sonic screwdrivers, Daleks, Cybermen, replicas of various TARDIS consoles. I took tons of pictures.

I had a blast, and even Daniel, whose interest in Doctor Who is much more casual, enjoyed it. I recommend it. (They'll be closing in September so that they can update it for the new Doctor. Which I guess means I have a perfect excuse to plan a return trip.)

We had a late lunch at the Bosphorus restaurant on Mermaid Quay, which in addition to serving tasty Turkish food, happens to have been the spot where the 9th Doctor, Rose, Mickey, and Jack Harkness had breakfast in the episode "Boom Town". Captain Jack, alas, was not in evidence today.

We spent the remainder of the day lazing around, drinking tea and reading and soaking up the Cardiff atmosphere. It's been a nice break from the hecticness of London. Tomorrow, we head back to the hecticness of London.
Well, we haven't to Bath yet. The weather forecast has been looking a bit chancy, so we decided to stay in London where we could do plenty of things indoors if the weather required it.

Monday morning, we took a stroll through Whitehall and Westminster, looked at the queues at the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey, and decided to come back sometime when we'd booked advanced tickets. So, instead we went to the British Library. Which is awesome. They have all kinds of amazing stuff: Jane Austen's writing desk (and the manuscript of Persuasion)! The only surviving medieval manuscript copy of Beowulf (plus some draft pages of Seamus Heaney's translation, which give some sense of how hard he found it to get the opening right)! Handwritten sheets of Beatles' lyrics! Plus more gorgeously illuminated manuscripts than you can shake a stick at.

After lunch and a nap, I went to the National Gallery, to indulge my love of 16th and early 17th century painting. I particularly wanted to see the three Caravaggio paintings there. I particularly enjoyed seeing "Salome receives the head of John the Baptist" - I like the way Salome is looking away from the severed head with a slight expression of disgust, while her maidservant peers intently over her shoulder. I also got a kick out of Domenichino's "Saint John the Evangelist", in which two little cherubim struggle to hold up enormous books for John to write in, while the distracted saint stomps on an irate looking eagle which appears to be thinking about making lunch out of the cherub on the right. Plus, when you enter the room from the entrance opposite this painting, the first impression you get is of being mooned by pudgy cherub butt.

Yes, I love early 17th century Italian painting for all the wrong reasons, but I do love it.

Tuesday, we went to see the Tower of London (having booked tickets in advance). We spent a good portion of the day there. There's a pretty cool exhibit about coinage and the royal mint, plus a really nice collection of royal arms and armor. I hope some of my armor photos come out well. And we stood in line to see the crown jewels. Which are definitely impressive. If I had to pick only one exhibit, I'd choose the armor over the jewels, but the jewels are definitely a one-of-a-kind collection.

Later, we crossed the river and visited the Golden Hinde, a reconstructed Elizabethan sailing ship. We joined one of the guided tours, which was organized around the conceit that we were a batch of new recruits and our guide was an officer showing us the ropes. It was both fun and hugely entertaining. I don't usually go for guided tours, preferring to poke around at my own pace, but in this case I'm glad I made an exception.

Today we took a train to Cardiff. We visited Cardiff Castle, which is an interesting agglomeration of different time periods. Lining one wall of the gift shop/cafe is a remnant of Cardiff's old Roman wall. In the middle of the complex is a semi-ruined Norman keep, which you can climb to the top of for some pretty nice city views. And then you can tour the part of the castle that the Marquess of Bute used to live in. Which is basically an illustration of what happens when a Victorian coal baron with a taste for medieval gothic architecture gets to indulge himself. It's a bit ludicrous. Carved and painted ceilings, stained glass, more coats of arms than you can shake a stick at...I hope some of my photos come out. It's very impressive.

We had dinner at Mint and Mustard, a very good Indian restaurant. (We've been to a couple South Indian restaurants here in the U.K., and the food is like nothing I've ever had in the Bay Area.) Our waitress asked if we were on holiday, and then, in rather mystified tones, asked, "If I may ask, why did you come to Cardiff?" My answer was, "the castle and the Doctor Who Experience," which seemed to be a satisfactory answer.

So, tomorrow we'll see the Doctor Who Experience. And if it doesn't rain on us too hard, maybe do some more sightseeing.

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