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wshaffer

September 2021

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Well, my recounting of my U.K. trip was derailed a bit by traveling back to the States and then being a VMworld for most of the next week. Picking up our tale again on Aug. 17...

Sunday was a pretty low-key day, because I was still pretty tired and footsore from Saturday. We spent the morning in the British Museum, looking at some of the stuff we'd missed on our previous visit: primarily Asian and Mesoamerican works. And I remembered to take my camera along, so there will be pictures. By around lunctime, the crowds had gotten silly again, so we left.

After lunch, we took a stroll through Whitehall and visited Banqueting House, the last surviving fragment of Whitehall Palace, famous primarily for the fact that Charles I was executed just outside. Banqueting House is a really nice place to go in London if you want to just chill out or get out of the rain for a bit. The main attraction is the ceiling in the main hall, painted by Reubens. They have comfy benches and beanbag chairs, and you are very much encouraged to lounge there and contemplate the paintings for as long as you want.

On Monday, we went to Bath. We started with a visit to the Roman baths. They've put together a museum around the baths that has a lot of interesting stuff from the Roman settlement. I particularly liked a little display of written curses left by people at the temple - lots of "May something horrible happen to whoever stole my slave/lover/new bronze pot." They also had the only extant inscription in British Celtic. Pretty cool.

Afterwards, we visited Bath Abbey. The church has one of the coolest gothic exteriors I've seen - I really like the carvings of angels climbing Jacob's ladder on the front of the church.



The interior of the Abbey has some quite spectacular funerary monuments. Visiting it also gave me a lot of sympathy for the problems of trying to run an active community church and ministry in a place that is a) many hundreds of years old and b) a huge tourist attraction. There were lots of signs around explaining various parish projects, like that they are installing new flooring because the old flooring is collapsing due to all the burials under it. The new flooring is also allowing them to put in a new heating system that uses heat from the baths, which is pretty awesome.

The view from the Bath Abbey tower is supposed to be the best view in Bath, but you can only go up there with a guided tour, so we skipped it. Instead, we walked up to the hill to the Bath Fashion Museum. (You can get a combined ticket with the ticket to the Roman Baths that makes the Fashion Museum a good deal.) They had an exhibit of costumes from Downton Abbey, as well as an interesting selection of Regency court dress. I admit, we were getting a bit tired by that point, so we didn't linger as long as we might have in other circumstances.
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On Friday, we caught a train back to London, and had to haul our luggage rather further than anticipated thanks to the fact that you can't currently get on the Bakerloo line at Paddington. You can get off the Bakerloo line at Paddington, but it's not a reversible operation.

We spent a couple of hours in the afternoon at the British Museum, looking at the Egyptian and Assyrian sculptures. It's amazing stuff - I've seen photos of almost all of it, but you can't appreciate the scale of it from a photo. After a while the crowds got to be bit too much for me, as did the tendency of said crowds to put their hands all over the exhibits. STOP TOUCHING THE 3000 YEAR-OLD SCULPTURES, PEOPLE! I really like the fact that so many of the sculptures are not roped off or walled up in glass, and keeping our hands off 'em is the best way to keep it that way.

On Saturday, we had a fancy birthday lunch at Marcus at the Berkeley Hotel. The food was delicious, but the people watching was almost as much fun. Everyone there seemed either to be regulars, or to be celebrating a birthday. There was a woman dining alone who delivered a scathing critique of the potato-fennel bread to the waiter, and was promised that when she came in next, she would absolutely not be served potato-fennel bread. (I thought it was perfectly nice potato-fennel bread.) The couple seated next to us were having an epic set of wine pairings arranged by the sommelier, and got happier and louder as the meal went on. A young man a few tables over was having a farewell meal before he went off to spend a year studying in Chicago. I wanted to go over and reassure him that you can get fancy French food in Chicago, too.

After lunch, I went back to the hotel and got gothed up for an evening at Electrowerkz, where "S.O.S. Fest" - a lineup of smaller bands salvaged from the line-up of the defunct Alt-Fest - was taking place. Electrowerkz is hidden in a side street behind the Angel tube station, and is apparently a metalworking shop part of the time, a goth club ("Slimelight") every Saturday night from 10pm to 7:30am, and an occasional pop-up restaurant and wedding venue at other times. I got there a bit before 5pm, and found the large open space downstairs occupied by folks selling band merchandise, a cocktail bar housed in a disused tube train (signed for "Upminster"), a kitchen cooking falafel and jerk chicken, and a crowd of black-clad figures swilling Strongbow cider and Red Stripe beer while the sound system wafted Fields of the Nephilim tunes over the scene.

I made my way upstairs through a maze of twisty staircases to one of the upstairs dancefloors where most of the bands were playing. I managed to catch most of The Beauty of Gemina's set. They play a very rollicking acoustic-guitar driven sort of goth, and the singer tells silly stories between songs, like about how their song "Mariannah" is allegedly about a woman who refused to marry each member of the band in turn. Even the drummer. "And he had the best chance, really, because girls like drummers, you know."

Next up were The Exploding Boy. I knew nothing about them before seeing them live at this event. They're Swedish, and they wear their Sisters of Mercy influences very much on their sleeve - to the extent that I sometimes thought I could identify which Sisters song they'd taken their drum loop from. But they played a really engaging set, enough so that I went downstairs afterwards and bought a CD from one of the guys in the band, and told him how much I enjoyed the set.

Whispers in the Shadow played a sadly short set due to technical difficulties, but were pretty fun to watch. The singer is of the dramatic hand-gestures and flinging oneself around the stage school of frontmanship, and when their sound was working properly, it was a very epic sounding mix of layered keyboards, guitars, and samples.

Turkish duo She Past Away were one of the bands I was most looking forward to. Judging by the crowd response, I wasn't alone. I'm not sure if the guys know any English other than "thank you," but they were clearly having a great time. Plus, I'd managed to wriggle my way up to the third row. Betcha I'd never have managed that at Alt-Fest.

At that point, I escaped downstairs to get some fresh air and food, and rest my feet a bit. I missed the beginning of Clan of Xymox's set, and had to watch the rest of it from the very back of a packed room. I couldn't see much, but the band sounded good, and there was lots of dancing in the crowd. My favorite moment came during the encore, when they played a cover of "Venus," and I was suddenly surrounded by a few hundred madly dancing goths shouting, "I'm your Venus, I'm your fire..." It was a blast.

There was about a 30 minute break before the last band, Pretentious, Moi?, were scheduled to play. I'd actually spotted Tim Chandler, the singer, several times over the course of the night, and kept meaning to go over and say hello, but he always seemed to be on his way somewhere or deep in conversation, and I didn't want to be THAT fan. So, he rather made my night when he bounced up to me with a huge grin, pointed at my Pretentious, Moi? t-shirt, and said, "I just keep wanting to point and squawk and shout, 'I drew that!'" Definitely one case where I'm glad I broke the "Don't wear the band's shirt to the gig" rule.

I actually missed the very beginning of Pretentious, Moi?'s set because it was in one of the downstairs dancefloors and I got lost trying to find my way there. (Seriously, I'm not sure the Electrowerkz interior obeys the ordinary rules of geometry.) But what I did catch was the highlight of the evening for me. They played two new songs - one called "Turn out the lights," and one whose title I didn't catch - which seem to bode well for the prospects for a new album.

I left at about 1am, and caught the night bus back to my hotel. Only to find the front door locked. I had to ring the doorbell and wait rather sheepishly for the night manager to let me in. I felt a bit like a teenager sneaking in after curfew, which I suppose is a fitting end to a night of clubbing.
Me dressed for an evening at Slimelight, the goth club night at the Electrowerkz club in London. I actually put on makeup for the first time in ages. I must have looked fairly convincing, because as I was walking through Islington, a total stranger came up and asked me if I knew the way to Slimelight.


And here's one of the better shots I got of the singer/guitarist of Turkish goth duo She Past Away, who performed at Electrowerkz that evening:
I don't really have proper photo editing/viewing software with me here, but I'm going to try to share a few that don't need much tinkering. This is a bit of ceiling decoration from Southwark cathedral - now removed from the ceiling and displayed at picture-taking height. I believe it is supposed to represent Satan swallowing Judas.

Well, we haven't to Bath yet. The weather forecast has been looking a bit chancy, so we decided to stay in London where we could do plenty of things indoors if the weather required it.

Monday morning, we took a stroll through Whitehall and Westminster, looked at the queues at the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey, and decided to come back sometime when we'd booked advanced tickets. So, instead we went to the British Library. Which is awesome. They have all kinds of amazing stuff: Jane Austen's writing desk (and the manuscript of Persuasion)! The only surviving medieval manuscript copy of Beowulf (plus some draft pages of Seamus Heaney's translation, which give some sense of how hard he found it to get the opening right)! Handwritten sheets of Beatles' lyrics! Plus more gorgeously illuminated manuscripts than you can shake a stick at.

After lunch and a nap, I went to the National Gallery, to indulge my love of 16th and early 17th century painting. I particularly wanted to see the three Caravaggio paintings there. I particularly enjoyed seeing "Salome receives the head of John the Baptist" - I like the way Salome is looking away from the severed head with a slight expression of disgust, while her maidservant peers intently over her shoulder. I also got a kick out of Domenichino's "Saint John the Evangelist", in which two little cherubim struggle to hold up enormous books for John to write in, while the distracted saint stomps on an irate looking eagle which appears to be thinking about making lunch out of the cherub on the right. Plus, when you enter the room from the entrance opposite this painting, the first impression you get is of being mooned by pudgy cherub butt.

Yes, I love early 17th century Italian painting for all the wrong reasons, but I do love it.

Tuesday, we went to see the Tower of London (having booked tickets in advance). We spent a good portion of the day there. There's a pretty cool exhibit about coinage and the royal mint, plus a really nice collection of royal arms and armor. I hope some of my armor photos come out well. And we stood in line to see the crown jewels. Which are definitely impressive. If I had to pick only one exhibit, I'd choose the armor over the jewels, but the jewels are definitely a one-of-a-kind collection.

Later, we crossed the river and visited the Golden Hinde, a reconstructed Elizabethan sailing ship. We joined one of the guided tours, which was organized around the conceit that we were a batch of new recruits and our guide was an officer showing us the ropes. It was both fun and hugely entertaining. I don't usually go for guided tours, preferring to poke around at my own pace, but in this case I'm glad I made an exception.

Today we took a train to Cardiff. We visited Cardiff Castle, which is an interesting agglomeration of different time periods. Lining one wall of the gift shop/cafe is a remnant of Cardiff's old Roman wall. In the middle of the complex is a semi-ruined Norman keep, which you can climb to the top of for some pretty nice city views. And then you can tour the part of the castle that the Marquess of Bute used to live in. Which is basically an illustration of what happens when a Victorian coal baron with a taste for medieval gothic architecture gets to indulge himself. It's a bit ludicrous. Carved and painted ceilings, stained glass, more coats of arms than you can shake a stick at...I hope some of my photos come out. It's very impressive.

We had dinner at Mint and Mustard, a very good Indian restaurant. (We've been to a couple South Indian restaurants here in the U.K., and the food is like nothing I've ever had in the Bay Area.) Our waitress asked if we were on holiday, and then, in rather mystified tones, asked, "If I may ask, why did you come to Cardiff?" My answer was, "the castle and the Doctor Who Experience," which seemed to be a satisfactory answer.

So, tomorrow we'll see the Doctor Who Experience. And if it doesn't rain on us too hard, maybe do some more sightseeing.
Hello from London! We've been having a great time so far.

We arrived on Friday afternoon, but were pretty much too exhausted to do much except stroll around St. James Park a bit, have some dinner, and conk out.

We started Saturday by wandering around Covent Garden a bit, stopping to see St. Paul's church, which I wanted to see primarily because it features in the opening scene of Ben Aaronovitch's Rivers of London. It's a credit to Aaronovitch's powers of description that it looks pretty much as I pictured it, except that the actual distance between the church and Covent Garden market is smaller than I'd imagined. ("The distance is smaller than I imagined" is a pretty good description of Central London, generally.)

From there we walked to Sir John Soane's museum, which I think has to be seen to be believed. It's just crammed full of stuff - architectural models, sculpture (original and reproductions), drawings, bric-a-brac. It's too bad you can't take photos there, because I don't think mere words do justice to how packed the place is.

We made our way to the Museum of London, stopping at St. Bartholomew's church along the way. St. Bartholomew's is one of the few buildings in London that actually date back to the middle ages. Fortunately, the neighboring hospital looks like it's been renovated a fair few times since the 1100s.

The Museum of London is really cool. I particularly liked the exhibits on Roman London. We also had fun totally geeking out with a museum staff member about swords, prompted by his jumping in to correct me when I mis-identified a hand-and-a-half sword as a two-handed sword. (Silly me. I really ought to know better. On the other hand, being wrong prompted a conversation which was much more fun and informative than just reading the informational placards.)

For today's explorations, we'd intended a maritime theme, planning to visit the Docklands museum and then head on to Greenwich. But after we got out of the Docklands museum, it was raining pretty hard, so we made our soggy way back to central London, had lunch, and holed up in a Waterstone's bookstore for a while. When it cleared up a bit, we went to the National Portrait Gallery and explored the top floor, which has the medieval, Elizabethan, and Stuart-era portraits. Which prompted today's Stupid Question In History: Was the overall prestige of the Order of the Garter tied to the fashion for men wearing hosiery? (Do present day members of the Order of the Garter still wear the garter?)

Tomorrow, weather permitting, I think we'll take a day trip to Bath.
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